본문 바로가기주메뉴 바로가기하단 바로가기
  • About the site
Introduce
Numerous topics related to Korean culture and art are mentioned in middle and high school national history textbooks, but most of them are briefly described by era, making it difficult to understand their concepts, transition processes, and characteristics.
<Culture & Art Stories from Korean History> produces and provides video materials based on expert commentary on the flow, change process, characteristics and characteristics of each major topic in the field of culture and art in Korean history.
사이트소개 창 닫기
Scenario

K-beauty, the beauty methods and products used by Koreans and loved by the world!
The original Korean beauty culture!
Just how far back does our ancestors’ quest for beauty go?

History and Aesthetics of Makeup

The commonly-used phrase “hwajang” means to apply a product to the face to make one’s self appear more beautiful. However, our Korean ancestors used the term “danjang“ instead.

Historically, mural paintings dating to the Three Kingdoms period confirm women’s use of makeup. In these images, rouge is painted to both cheeks.

We can also find ladies wearing makeup in murals of the Goryeo period. Their makeup is rather simple, with the exception of their neatly trimmed eyebrows.

‘(姿)色則爲塗粉所變, 豈可以塗粉爲眞色乎
If a pure face is achieved using powder, can we truly call it pure? - Yeonsangun ilgi (Diary of King Yeonsangun), January 11, 1505 (Year 11 of Yeonsangun)

The heavily Confucian-influenced Joseon Dynasty felt makeup masked one’s beauty and discouraged excessive beautification. The ladies in still-life paintings, from commoner women to gisaeng, all had very light, minimal makeup. Their white skin in particular stands out.

It’s said that both men and women preferred pale white skin. Pale skin was a symbol of status, meaning one was free from manual labor. White skin also helped accentuate a lady’s dark hair.

Joseon ladies put a lot of effort into the styling of their hair. It was the dream of many a girl to wear a wig to make their hair appear fuller. So women would gather together and make their skin look as white as white jade to accentuate their voluminous hair.

People washed their faces with rice water or soap made from ground grains and beans. They also applied honey and other masks, paying particular attention to their skin’s nutrition and clarity.

“500 puffs, 2 powder jars, 500 needles” - Sejong sillok (Veritable Records of King Sejong), January 27, 1429 (Year 11 of King Sejong)

“(She) gave each of them one bag of powder, rouge, needles, and a pair of baengnyeong.” - Sejo sillok (Veritable Records of King Sejo), May 15, 1468 (Year 14 of King Sejo)

We also see a preference for white skin in the powder makeup they used. There is evidence of this trend being led by ladies of the royal palace.

A powder box still containing white powder was found in the tomb of King Hyojong’s daughter, Princess Suksin. It is interesting to see that the powder was spooned out, then smoothed and spread out.

Various makeup implements were also uncovered from the tomb of Princess Hwahyeop, Prince Sado’s older sister. Some of the powder and rouge used by the princess still remained in the containers.

Natural beauty methods preferred over artificial beauty! Are our current beauty aesthetics not a continuation of this ideology?

“In Korea, we want to achieve that white, clear, almost pearl-like skin. Because of this, we put more of a focus on our skincare routine. On the other hand, China and Japan focus more on makeup. I think the reason for this is based on the beauty standards of the people of that country. And a characteristic of Korean makeup is making the skin appear fair, clear, and supple while also making it glow. That is the ethos of Korean beauty.” Lee Minju, Senior Researcher / The Academy of Korean Studies

Traditional Cosmetic Ingredients and Varieties

“Establish the Boyeomseo and purchase clothing and personal items (hair pins, makeup)...” - Jungjong sillok (Veritable Records of King Jungjong), September 2, 1506 (Year 1 of King Jungjong)

They say that the Joseon royal family ordered makeup fetched from the Ministry of Cosmetics, the Boyeomseo. But where did ordinary people get their makeup?

“In the Joseon Dynasty, because there was such a focus on clear skin, they used products that were easily accessible to care for the skin. But whenever there was a special event or festival, they would apply bolder makeup. This was because it was difficult for regular households to manufacture makeup. We have found instances of these products being purchased through a cosmetics peddler.” Kim Minjung, Researcher / Coreana Cosmetics Museum

“When the winter face is rough and chapped, take three eggs, mix with alcohol, then let sit for 28 days or so before applying to the face. The face will not only be restored but shine like jade.” - Yi Bingheogak, Gyuhap chongseo (Women’s Encyclopedia)

The Gyuhap chongseo, a work geared toward Joseon women, introduces cosmetic ingredients and methods for making your own beauty products. Its main article is about making myeonji.

Myeonji is a product that supplies nutrients to the face. Add eggs to the alcohol and let it sit, then apply it to your face to make your skin shine.

“We frequently consume egg whites and yokes as they both contain protein, but egg shells also have lots of wonderful minerals. If our skin lacks these minerals, it becomes chapped. It says to put eggs in alcohol and let them sit for about a month. It seems the author was relaying personal experience to posterity.” Lee Jieun / President, Korea Society for the Study of Natural Beauty

Squash, sponge gourds, citrons, and other ingredients were used to make miansu, a water that brought moisture to the skin. The tips of cucumbers were also rubbed over the face. Safflower was also used to make rouge. Charcoal and Asiatic dayflower petals were burned and used to make ink.

A powder to brighten one’s face was highly sought after by ladies of the period. Baekbun, made from finely ground marvel-of-peru fruit, rice, and barley, had one disadvantage, though – it didn’t stay on for very long.

As a result, the long-lasting yeonbun gained popularity. But due to lead being one of its ingredients, it had obvious drawbacks.

Still, there were ladies whose desire to be beautiful knew no bounds. One song talks about women willing to sell their old undergarments to buy the powder.

The ladies of Joseon, who sought to improve themselves by seeking knowledge from natural ingredients.

The aesthetics of our ancestors, who strove after natural beauty, is still an integral part of the current K-beauty method, which is currently captivating the world.

[Epilogue]
Must-Know Facts on Culture and Art in Korean History

1. “Hwajang” means to spread and massage products onto the face to make one appear more beautiful.
2. Due to the influence of Confucianism during the Joseon Dynasty, inner beauty was emphasized over thick makeup.
3. Joseon ladies preferred white, clear skin to colorful makeup.